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Hiking routes and mountains climbs.

For a 3 days easy trekking around Monte Gelàs, go to trekking

Cima Maledia from Monte Clapier

Suggestions for an excursion to the lodge

  1. Bring a raincoat and wrap everything in your rucksack in plastic bags. For sunny days bring a water bottle, sunglasses, sun screen and lip balm.

  2. You don't need your sleeping bag, but a cotton sleeping sheet is required to separate yourself from lodge blankets.

  3. Clothes in layers for the day (so that you can easily put on or take off items according to the temperature); warm and lightweight clothing for the evening (e.g.: a pile jacket instead of a sweater).

  4. For overnight stays at the lodge, ears plugs are highly recommended, and eventually mineral drops to add to the snow run-off streams.

  5. And lastly, walking poles for very long hikes, particularly for long downward routes.

Summary of Climb-Difficulty Degrees:

 T diff.: pedestrian route (along unmistakable unpaved roadways or well-maintained trails, usually below 2000 m, 6500 ft)

E diff.: trekkers route (along marked hiking trails over slopes of grass or rubble)

EE diff.: expert trekkers route (along itineraries that require easy free-climbing passages, leaning out over drop-offs, and crossing unreliable and not-marked grounds)

F diff.: it's the easiest climbs, suitable for novice climbers who can manage the level 1 degree of difficulty; rope adviseable

PD diff. (peu difficile): somewhat difficult climbs, for those who can manage the level 2 degree of difficulty; here proper climbing begins, and the average climber considers the use of rope, though pitons are unnecessary

AD diff. (assez difficile): rather difficult (III-degree)

D diff. (difficult): IV-degree

TD diff. (très difficile): very difficult (V-degree)

ED diff. (extrêmement difficile): VI-degree.

 

Hiking routes:

 

Pagarì Pass (E diff.) 45 minutes

1) + Cima di Pagarì (E diff.) 30 minutes from the Pass

2) + Pas du Lac Long (EE diff.) 15 minutes from the Pass

3) + Lacs du Monte Clapier (E diff.) 30 minutes from the Pass

 Lago Bianco dell’Agnel (E diff.) 1 hour and 10 minutes

1) + Colle dell’Agnel (EE diff.) 20 minutes From the Lake

2) + Collet W de la Charnassère (EE diff.) 1 hour and 30 from the Lake

 Laghi Bianchi del Gelàs (E diff.) 1 hour and 30 minutes

1) + untended Moncalieri Cabin (E diff.) 30 minutes from the Lakes

 

Mountain Climbs:

 

Cima di Pagarì (E diff.) across Passo di Pagarì 1 hour and 15

Cima di Peirabroc (PD+ diff.) across Passo di Pagarì 1 hour and 30

 Rond Mount (PD diff.) across Pas du Lac Long 1 hour and 45

 

 Caire del Muraion (PD diff.)

1) across Canalino della Maledia 1 hour and 10

2) across Lac Long Pass 2 hours and 10

Cima della Maledia (PD diff.)

1) across Canalino della Maledia 1 hour and 30

2) across Pas du Lac Long 2 hours and 30 

Monte Clapier from Passo Pagarì

Cime del Lago dell’Agnel (F diff.) across Colle dell’Agnel 2 hours and 30

 Monte Clapier (F diff.) across Passo di Pagarì 2 hours and 30

Cime de la Lusière (PD diff.) across Pas de la Fous 4 hours and 30

Cima Viglino (PD diff.) across Pas de la Fous 4 hours and 15

Monte Gelàs (PD diff.)

1) across Canalino della Maledia 3 hours

2) across Pas du Lac Long 3 hours and 30

3) downward route from the summit to San Giacomo 4 hours

Circumambulations:

Easy loops for hikers who stay at the lodge a couple of nights

 “Maledia and Muraion” Loop 4 hours and 30

(Federici-Marchesini Trekking Lodge, Passo di Pagarì, Pas du Lac Long, SE depression of Passo della Maledia, Lago Bianco Mediano del Gelàs, Passo Soprano del Muraion, Federici-Marchesini Trekking Lodge)

“Mont Rond and Lac Long” Loop 4 hours and 50

(Federici-Marchesini Trekking Lodge, Passo di Pagarì, Pas du Lac Long, masonry dam of Lac Long, Passo di Pagarì, Federici-Marchesini Trekking Lodge)

“Monte Clapier and Cossato Peak” Loop 8 hours

(Federici-Marchesini Trekking Lodge, Passo di Pagarì, Monte Clapier, Brèche du Couloir S du Mont Clapier, Pas de la Fous, Lac de la Lusière, Collet W de la Charnassère, Colle dell’Agnel, Federici-Marchesini Trekking Lodge)

Downward routes to San Giacomo in place of the main trail:

  1.  Pagarì - Lago Bianco dell’Agnel - downward along Comba di Peirabroc - S. Giacomo 4:10 (PD diff.)

  2. Pagarì – Lago Bianco del Gelàs - downward along Vallone di Pantacreus - S. Giacomo 5:00 (E diff.)

  3. Pagarì - unguarded Moncalieri Cabin - Soria-Ellena Trekking Lodge - S. Giacomo 6:00 (EE diff.)

  4. Pagarì - Colle dell’Agnel – Passo del Sabbione – Passo del Vei del Bouc - S. Giacomo 8:45 (EE diff.)

 

Hikes to other lodges a day’s distance away: 

§         Pagarì Trekking Lodge – untended Moncalieri Cabin – Passaggio dei Ghiacciai del Gelàs - Soria-Ellena Trekking Lodge 4:45 (EE diff.)

§         Pagarì Trekking Lodge - Passo di Pagarì - Monte Clapier - Brèche du Couloir S – Nice Trekking Lodge 4:30 (E diff.)

§         Pagarì Trekking Lodge 1. Colle dell’Agnel – Collet W de la Charnassère - Valmasque Trekking Lodge 5:00 (EE diff.) 2. Passo di Pagarì - Monte Clapier - Pas de la Fous – Valmasque Trekking Lodge 5:15 (EE diff.)

§         Pagarì Trekking Lodge - Passo di Pagarì – Nice Trekking Lodge – Pas du Mont Colomb – Madone Trekking Lodge 5:25 (EE diff.)

§         Pagarì Trekking Lodge - Passo di Pagarì - Baisse du Basto - Baisse de Fontanalbe – Fontanalbe Trekking Lodge 6:45 (E diff.)

§         Pagarì Trekking Lodge - Passo di Pagarì - Baisse du Basto - Baisse de Merveilles – Merveilles Trekking Lodge 6:30 (E diff.)

 

The crossing of Maritime Alps Natural Park in 8 days starting from Federici-Marchesini Trekking Lodge: 

I CASE

  1. From San Giacomo to Federici-Marchesini Trekking Lodge 4 hours and 45

  2. From Federici-Marchesini Trekking Lodge to Soria-Ellena Trekking Lodge 4 hours and 45

  3. From Soria-Ellena Trekking Lodge to Genova-Figari Trekking Lodge 3 hours. Than from Genova-Figari Trekking Lodge to Morelli-Buzzi Trekking Lodge 2 hours and 40 more.

  4. From Morelli-Buzzi Trekking Lodge to Terme di Valdieri 2 hours and 30. Than from Terme di Valdieri to Bozano Trekking Lodge 3 hours and 10 more.

  5. From Bozano Trekking Lodge to Remondino Trekking Lodge 2 hours and 20. Than from Remondino Trekking Lodge to Regina Elena Trekking Lodge 1 hour and 20 more.

  6. From Regina Elena Trekking Lodge to Questa Trekking Lodge 4 hours and 40

  7. From Questa Trekking Lodge to Livio Bianco Trekking Lodge 6 hours and 45

  8. From Livio Bianco Trekking Lodge to S. Anna di Valdieri 2 hours

II CASE

  1. From San Giacomo to Federici-Marchesini Trekking Lodge 4 hours and 45

  2. From Federici-Marchesini Trekking Lodge to Madone Trekking Lodge 5 hours and 25

  3. From Madone Trekking Lodge to Soria-Ellena Trekking Lodge 3 hours. Than from Soria-Ellena Trekking Lodge to Genova-Figari Trekking Lodge 3 hours more.

  4. From Genova-Figari Trekking Lodge to Morelli-Buzzi Trekking Lodge 2 hours and 40. Than from Morelli-Buzzi Trekking Lodge to Terme di Valdieri 2 hours and 30 more.

  5. From Terme di Valdieri to Bozano Trekking Lodge 3 hours and 10. Than from Bozano Trekking Lodge to Remondino Trekking Lodge 2 hours and 20 more.

  6. From Remondino Trekking Lodge to Questa Trekking Lodge 6 hours

  7. From Questa Trekking Lodge to Livio Bianco Trekking Lodge 6 hours and 45

  8. From Livio Bianco Trekking Lodge to S. Anna di Valdieri 2 hours

 

 Routes on ridges:

 Caire del Muraion, N ridge and E ridge; PD diff.: II, II+, with avoidable III-degree passages.

Serra di Pagarì and Cima della Maledia along the SE ridge; D diff.: III, with a IV-degree passage.

Guglia Manzone along the N corner and traverse of Cresta Manzone and shoulder of Cima di Peirabroc (N ridge and E ridge); D- diff.: III, IV-.

Cima Cossato, N ridge and E ridge; AD diff.: III, with two avoidable IV-degree passages.

Traversata degli Italiani: Caire del Muraion, Cima Borello, Cima Chafrion, Monte Gelàs; AD- diff.: II, III-.

Contrafforte della Siula; PD+ diff.: II, with a length of II+ degree.

Contrafforte della Cima del Tor; AD- diff.: III-.

Monte Carbonè Mountainside; AD- diff.: III-.

 

Climbing Classic Routes by Federici-Marchesini Trekking Lodge:

 The little cliff by Federici-Marchesini Trekking Lodge: climbing with the use of rope and expansion bolts.

Caire del Muraion, E-SE side: Right route (AD+ diff.)

Cima della Maledia, NE face:

1. De Cessole – Plent route (little sharp AD diff.)

2. “Viaggio postmoderno” route (TD diff.)

Cima della Maledia, SW side:

1. De Cessole – Plent route or diagonal line route (PD diff. sup.)

2. Meade – Blanc route (sharp AD+ diff.)

Cima O del Lago dell’Agnel, W side: “Aria di montagna” route (TD diff., the sole route equipped by expansion bolts)

 

Late-spring routes over snow

 

Part I: Alpine routes with crampons and ice axe 

Snow-clad gorges by Federici-Marchesini Trekking Lodge:

Animals you can meet close to the lodge

W Gorge of Cima di Peirabroc N spur (PD diff.)

Cima di Pagarì along the W-NW Gorge (F+ diff.)

Cima di Peirabroc along the N Gorge to Passo dello Shiva-La (AD diff.)

 Monte Clapier ascent along the icy W-NW Gorge (PD+ diff.):

1) Getting there along Colle O del Clapier (F diff.)

2) Getting there ascending Ghiacciaio del Clapier (F diff.)

3) Getting there crossing Cresta Manzone:

3a) Along the gorge that from below is on the right-hand side of Punta Pia (AD diff.)

3b) Along the gorge that from below is on the left-hand side of Punta Pia (PD+ diff.)

Descent from the summit along the summer standard route across Passo di Pagarì (F diff.)

 

Cima della Maledia ascent along the N-W side:

 

1) Along Canalino della Maledia (PD diff.)

2) Across Passo di Pagarì, Pas du Lac Long and Passo della Maledia (PD diff.)

 

Monte Gelàs ascent:

Getting there from the French side:

1) From Federici-Marchesini Trekking Lodge to the basin of Lac Long:

A) Across Passo di Pagarì and Pas du Lac Long (F diff.)

B) Across Canalino della Maledia (PD diff.)

Ba) Downward route along the gorge that spreads down

from the S-E depression of Passo della Maledia (F+ diff.)

Bb) Downward route along the gorge that spreads down

from the N-W depression of Passo della Maledia (PD diff.+)

2) From the basin of Lac Long to the Terrasse du Gelàs (F diff.)

3) From the Terrasse du Gelàs to N summit of Monte Gelàs:

3a) Along E Gorge (standard route) (PD diff.)

3b) Along W Gorge (ice-fall) (AD diff.)

4) Downward route along the W-NW side of Gelàs (PD- diff.)

 

Getting there from the Italian side:

  1. From Federici-Marchesini Trekking Lodge to the foot of N Gorge of Balcone of Monte Gelàs (F diff.)

  2. N Gorge of Balcone of Gelàs (Couloir des Italiens) (PD+ diff.)

  3. From Balcone of Monte Gelàs to N summit of Monte Gelàs along the E Gorge (PD diff.)

  4. Downward route along the W-NW side of Gelàs (PD- diff.)

 Part II: Ski-routes

 Estimation of cross-country ski difficulties (according to French scale):

MS: average skier

BS: good skier

TBS: very good skier

TBSA: very good skier and alpinist

 

Monte Clapier:

1) Summit and its ski-circumambulation (Passo di Pagarì, Monte Clapier along its NW side, Couloir S, Pas de la Fous, Colle E, Colle O) (TBSA diff.)

2) Monte Clapier along its NW side

2a) Skiing down to Nice Trekking Lodge and way back across Passo di Pagarì (BS diff.)

2b) Skiing down to Nice Trekking Lodge, then ski-circumambulation of Mont Rond and Lac Long (TBS diff.)

 

Monte Gelàs:

  1. Cross-country ski crossing of Ghiacciai del Gelàs with downward route to S. Giacomo (TBSA diff.) (chance to climb with ice axe and crampons N Gorge of Balcone of Gelàs and Monte Gelàs summit)

  2. Cross-country ski crossing of Passo di Pagarì, Pas du Lac Long, the Terrasse du Gelàs, Colle di Finestra (TBS diff.) (chance to climb with ice axe and crampons Monte Gelàs E Gorge)

 

Downward cross-country ski routes from Federici-Marchesini Trekking Lodge:

 

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